Sailing through Northern Croatia

Croatia is made up of over 1,185 islands. Only 48 of these islands are inhabited, and some seem more like large rocks than actual islands. The landscape of these islands varies widely, from white rocky shorelines to heavy woods filled with fir trees. The islands of Croatia are all so unique, and so very gorgeous, but many are challenging to get to. The best way to explore these islands is by boat.

We were so fortunate that my cousins graciously hosted us on their beautiful sailboat last month. We had the most amazing time sailing with them through the islands of Northern Croatia.

Here’s a little look at our adventure sailing through the islands of Northern Croatia.

Punat, Krk Island

We departed from the Bay of Punat, on the Island of Krk.

Krk is the largest island in the Adriatic, and is considered the Golden Island. It is a popular tourist destination due to its central geographical location, mild mediterranean climate, and abundance of history and culture. Plus it has nearly 2,500 hours of sunlight per year.

Punat is a small tourist town with lovely homes, a happening downtown area, and an abundance of olive groves. It is also home to the largest and oldest marina in the Adriatic. Marina Punat can accomodate nearly 1,200 vessels and has amenities such as restaurants, shops, and even a hotel. For us, it was a safe, easy place to park our car while we were away. (Parking information: No reservations are needed, and they offer very reasonable daily, weekly and monthly parking rates.)

Rajska Plaža, Rab Island

Our first stop was the popular vacation area of San Marino and Rajska Plaža (Paradise Beach) on the Northeast side of Rab. Rajska Plaža is one of the largest sandy beaches on the Adriatic and is ideal for families with children. The most popular beach on the Lopar Peninsula, Rajska Plaža has been awarded the blue flag for the quality and cleanliness of the water. We were anchored a few hundred meters off of the beach, but swam in to enjoy both the sandy beach and the giant toys in the water. The sea in front of Rajska Plaža is crystal clear, and towards the beach is super shallow which makes it nice and warm, perfect for the little ones.

Supetarska Draga, Rab Island

From Rajska Plaža, we sailed around the Northern tip of Otok Rab to Supetarska Draga. Draga means cove in Croatian, and this long and protected cove has long been used as a calm, safe anchorage spot for sailboats. The town of Supetarska Draga was one of the first towns on the island of Rab, and is home to the oldest benedictine abbey on the island.

The calm waters were perfect for a little tubing behind the boat, which the girls thought was just about the coolest thing ever. We also found a gorgeous little white sand beach and spent an afternoon on shore, building sandcastles and looking for seashells.

Though we ate most meals on the boat, we wanted to go ashore to try out the local cuisine at least a few times. Up on a cliff overlooking the sea in Supetarska Draga is the restaurant Belveder, serving fresh fish and vegetables. Just a short tender ride from our anchorage, and a few (hundred) steps up, this was the perfect spot to eat local Croatian food and watch the beautiful sunset over the Adriatic Sea.

Rab Town, Rab Island

After a few nights in Supetarska Draga, we sailed around to the west side of Otok Rab, to Rab Town. Rab town dates back to the 3rd century BC, and is known for its four bell towers which make it look like a ship with four masts.

We timed our visit to coincide with the Rab Medieval Crossbow Tournament (Rabska Fjera). This tournament dates back to the 14th century and marks the successful defense of the city against a siege in 1358. It was revived in 1995 by the Rab Crossbowmen’s Association, and takes place every year on May 9th, June 25th, July 27th, and August 15th. The tournament consist of contestants using a wooden Medieval Crossbow (weighing over 20kg) to shoot wooden bolts to a target just a few centimeter in diameter, while the rest of the town watches in amazement. There is also music, dancing, food, a parade, and beautiful medieval costumes to enjoy.

Cres Island

After researching the “best beaches in Croatia”, we crossed over to the east coast of Cres, in search of Mali Bok beach. We found it, but the winds were strong, the water choppy, and the beach didn’t look all that impressive. So we passed right by.

A little further north, we found a great little cove called Draga Kruscica, where we anchored for the night. The water was amazingly clear, and you could see fish all around. This was too tempting for the kids (and the big kids, too!) and soon everyone was in the water feeding the fish out of their hands.

Stara Baška, Krk Island

We then sailed from Otok Cres back to Otok Krk, and headed toward Stara Baška. And we finally experienced the infamous Bora Winds that I have heard so much about. This made for some very fun sailing. I’m just glad that we had dramamine on hand for the kids!

Vrbnik, Krk Island

The next day we headed up to the north side of Otok Krk. There we visited Vrbnik, a true traditional Mediterranean town with narrow winding streets, clustered houses, and a fortification wall. Vrbnik is known as the cradle of Croatian literacy, and is home to the narrowest street in the world (Klancic), only 43 centimeters wide. We loved exploring this picturesque little town in the middle of the day, when we had it nearly all to ourselves.

Krk, Krk Island

Our final stop was the town of Krk. This is one of the oldest towns in the Adriatic, continuously inhabited since Roman times when it was known as Curicum. Roman ruins are still visible today, as are some medieval fortifications such as the city walls and three Venetian city gates. Though Krk is a bit more touristy than the other towns we visited on the island, it is no less charming.

We took a quick break for dinner at the aptly named Secret Garden, hidden behind the ancient city walls of Krk. It was here that we got our first taste of šurlice, a homemade noodle from the island of Krk. The noodles are hand formed around knitting needles, and traditionally served with lamb stew. We ordered them with a 4 cheese sauce, and I have been thinking about that dinner ever since.

Punat, Krk Island

After spending another beautiful day day sailing, it was time to return to Marina Punat. We celebrated our last night in style with dinner at Konoba Ribice, where the fish is caught daily and the produce is all local. We sat in the lovely courtyard, enjoying the cool breeze, nice music, and of course the delicious fresh fish and Croatian wine. A wonderful end to a wonderful adventure.

P.S. – Don’t miss the rest of my posts about Croatia!